Wave Warrior (2007)
“Sunday was golden. I was up early and rode my bike to the beach without eating anything. It was only eight o’clock but there were already dozens of cars in the parking lot, mostly surfers. This was not good. I wasn’t going to attempt surfing in front of city surfers who already knew what they were doing. I didn’t see Ray’s van anywhere. And there was Tara, taking her board down from the top of her friend’s car. She already had her wet suit on and she looked stunning. I guess I was staring at he...r when she turned around. She said nothing.
“Hi,” I said nervously. “Good waves?”
“Awesome,” she said. “Shoulder high. Glassy. You gonna surf?”
“Dunno,” I answered. “Have a good one.”
I turned around and decided that, for sure, I should go home. I was ready to handle the pain of whatever wipeout was coming my way, but not the humiliation of Tara and the others watching me.
I was pedaling slowly out of the parking lot, thinking, no Ray, no way. So I was off the hook.MoreLess
“Hi,” I said nervously. “Good waves?”
“Awesome,” she said. “Shoulder high. Glassy. You gonna surf?”
“Dunno,” I answered. “Have a good one.”
I turned around and decided that, for sure, I should go home. I was ready to handle the pain of whatever wipeout was coming my way, but not the humiliation of Tara and the others watching me.
I was pedaling slowly out of the parking lot, thinking, no Ray, no way. So I was off the hook.MoreLess
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