“It was only 70 miles distant, but those 70 miles were described on the map as containing some of the toughest riding on the whole Tour Divide. They also preceded another long stretch bereft of services and, in my imagination at least, inhabited by thousands of hungry bears. Stopping in Butte seemed tactically astute. And it rhymed. The alarm sounded at the luxurious hour of 6 a.m. The lady in reception made good on her promise from the previous night and provided freshly brewed coffee. Combined... with Danish pastries and yesterday’s squashed bananas, it was as enjoyable a breakfast as I had had since Banff. Something about Helena clearly lent itself to comfort eating. The route out of town was along Last Chance Gulch. The name alone was enough to reassure me that I had decided correctly not to venture forth with last night’s knife-wielding companion. The eponymous warning signs increased as Last Chance Gulch turned into Grizzly Gulch. ‘Don’t worry, it was named because of the bear that used to live there when the town was still a mining camp,’ yesterday’s road mender had told me.MoreLessRead More Read Less
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