True Summit
“For the time being, let us pass the question by, and follow not Lachenal and Herzog as they press through the cold, thin air toward the summit, but Rébuffat and Terray as they climb out of Camp IV, planning a second summit foray the next day. Upon arriving at the serac-sheltered camp the night before, the two Chamonix guides had encountered Schatz and Couzy, who had at last completed their assigned task of hauling loads in support of the summit duo.
Throughout the expedition, it had been Terray... who was the stickler for early starts. In that respect, he was ahead of his time, often rousing his teammates at 3:00 or 4:00 A.M., thereby boldly applying the Alpine gambit of the predawn start to the Himalaya, a range where his predecessors had by and large been too discouraged by cold and altitude to brave a launch in the dark.
Happily assuming the lead on June 3, Terray plowed through chest-deep snow as he angled toward a notch in the Sickle. Higher up the soft snow gave way to ice, in which Terray chopped steps for the teammates who followed him.MoreLess
Throughout the expedition, it had been Terray... who was the stickler for early starts. In that respect, he was ahead of his time, often rousing his teammates at 3:00 or 4:00 A.M., thereby boldly applying the Alpine gambit of the predawn start to the Himalaya, a range where his predecessors had by and large been too discouraged by cold and altitude to brave a launch in the dark.
Happily assuming the lead on June 3, Terray plowed through chest-deep snow as he angled toward a notch in the Sickle. Higher up the soft snow gave way to ice, in which Terray chopped steps for the teammates who followed him.MoreLess
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