“I had to yank the bus’s stop cord quickly and hurry back a block to my father’s favorite Japantown restaurant—the one where we’d recently eaten. Only in America, I ruminated while waiting for the waitress to bring the sushi out from back. Only in America would a Japanese restaurant aspire to serve so many food groups—sushi and tempura and teriyaki, not to mention the noodles I’d complained about. I doubted a chef who was good at frying tempura would be equally facile at rolling rice and fish in... nori. The fact that the restaurant tried to do it all, instead of trying to master one cuisine, gave me a rush of homesickness for Tokyo. My aunt Norie Shimura—the wife of my father’s younger brother, Hiroshi—was an excellent cook. The scent of her slow-simmering stews wafted out of her house and onto the street, a pleasant invitation to me on my frequent visits. Inside, the round table in the dining room covered by a blue-and-white hand-blocked indigo print would be filled with an assortment of odd-shaped bowls and plates, all filled with things like her own pickled daikon radish and cucumbers, sweet, rich pumpkin cubes tossed in a ginger-soy sauce, and always, a saucer of tiny whole fish that would be sprinkled on top of the food for extra crunch.MoreLessRead More Read Less
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