Secrets She Left Behind (2009)
“MARCUS laughed as we carried our boards back to the tower after surfing. The surf sucked, so we’d only caught a few waves, but even though Marcus had to keep in shape because of being a firefighter, he looked totaled. “It’s gotta be ten years since I surfed,” he said.I wasn’t as good a surfer as I was before the fire, and my ankle was still sore from my escape from the police on Saturday night, so I figured we’d been about equal out there.It blew my mind when Marcus told me he used to surf. I d...idn’t know why I was so surprised, since he grew up near the ocean and everything. But I just couldn’t picture it. When he dragged out his old board and I saw how dinged-up it was, I was convinced he’d actually used it a few times.We peeled off our wet suits on his deck. He pulled a couple of bottles of water from an ice chest near the back door and tossed me one.“Sit out here for a while, or is it too chilly?” he asked as he dropped onto one of the lounge chairs.“It’s good.”MoreLess
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