“Some of it was down-home traditional Dixieland stuff, some if had to be more R&B but there was also what sounded, to my not-well-accustomed ear, like the cutting-edge contemporary variety. As New Orleans was claimed to be the birthplace of jazz, I had to do a little sampling. Funky Butt’s on Rampart Street was the first to bring me in and I stood at the bar nursing a beer while a cornet player blew his heart out. Jason Marsalis, youngest member of the talented musical family, came on then with ...a vibraphone, an instrument I didn’t recall seeing since Ritz Brothers movies. Down near the river, the Dragon’s Den enticed me with its unusual location above a Thai restaurant. An Eastern theme prevailed and it looked as if it was pretending to be a turn-of-the-century opium den. When I finally got back to the Hotel Monteleone, it was after midnight but it was as busy as midday. Cars were arriving and leaving, limos were gliding to and fro—although none drew me in—and people were gathered in knots and groups in the lobby and outside.MoreLessRead More Read Less
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