“Under its arcades the noise of traffic fades—well, on three of four sides anyway—replaced by the splashing of fountains. Pigeons and sparrows duel over the steep slate roofs of the square’s thirty-six identical pavilions. Their brick and stone façades, never shaded by other buildings, catch the shifting light of the Paris sky. People stroll by, peering into shop windows. Waiters weave among café tables set out under the vaults. In the square’s center, safe behind iron grillwork, children oblivi...ous to the backdrop play in sandboxes while au pairs chat on double-sided benches.Place des Vosges draws me in at least once a day and in all seasons, for the simple reason that Alison and I live about two hundred yards west of it. Sometimes, especially on a rainy night, the square feels like our cloister, a place of reflection and meditation. Sit in summer under the scented linden trees as the sun goes down and the street lamps flicker into life and you’ll feel not only the linden blossoms’ sticky weeping, but also your sensibilities tingling.MoreLessRead More Read Less
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