Off the Road
“My solitary days of amiable walks in the countryside, chatting and lunching with locals and winning praise from farmers and shepherds for my effort, comes to a crashing end. León is my next stop, a city of kings and cathedrals, court intrigue and tradition. The city’s name is a contraction of a powerful Roman army unit, Legio VII Gemina, once stationed here. Spain’s famous medieval knight el Cid was married downtown in the Romanesque church San Isidoro. A notorious Moorish general named Almanzo...r made several punitive raids on León. He was a tenth-century man with a twentieth-century sense of public relations. After each victory, and there were many, Almanzor returned to his tent and brushed the dirt and filth of battle into a box. When he died, his coffin was lined with this exquisite dust, and he was laid in it. Even the Spaniards begrudgingly admire him.
But a pilgrim walking into a city this size does not encounter history. If I were in a car, I could zoom straight to the old center of town.MoreLess
But a pilgrim walking into a city this size does not encounter history. If I were in a car, I could zoom straight to the old center of town.MoreLess
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