“The sight of the waterfalls as we come over a crest is magical: they’re at the centre of a true oasis in the middle of empty, dry desert. There are makalani palms, big old white baobabs, the blue lagoons of the Kunene and water falling over falls everywhere across an area 20 hectares or more. There’s Angola on the other side, looking peaceful and unaffected by tourism and over-grazing, and dust and piles of beer bottles all about on our side. We’re told that the Himba are a contented bunch who ...don’t steal or take anything that isn’t given to them, so there’s no need to lock the car or our tents. But who knows what they might get up to after emptying all those bottles so we lock the Troopy nevertheless. Epupa Camp has an activities manager, Neels, a very affable young South African who takes to calling my Neil, Neily. They get on like a house on fire and are trading practical jokes before the first day’s end. Neels takes us for sundowners to view the beautiful falls, and the next day we go white-water rafting, where Neels suddenly becomes very professional and we trust him totally.MoreLessRead More Read Less
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