“There’s always something slightly shifty about them, as if nothing is permanent, as if everyone is wheeling and dealing. Tahuna is such a place. It sits on the island of Sangihe, one of the lumps that arc upwards from the north-eastern limb of Sulawesi, and of all Indonesia’s towns it is among the closest to the Philippines. It’s been infiltrated with things from its brash northern neighbour: motorcycle rickshaws fitted with huge boom-boxes and blinged-up stickers of buxom blondes, Coca-Cola in... giant glass bottles, pop-tarts with fluorescent fillings. There’s less of the torpor that one often finds on small islands. I unfolded myself after a cramped ferry ride and set out for a stroll along Tahuna’s sea wall in the golden light of evening, admiring the fishing boats that dot the harbour, each painted in its own distinctive strip, pale blues, bright oranges, sea greens, lots of white. The boats, big and small, have V-shaped hulls, long and narrow, flourishing into an elegant curl at both prow and stern.MoreLessRead More Read Less
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