Dinner With Persephone (2011)
“Streams of cars, motorcycles, trucks carrying cases of beer and wine, and refrigerated trucks full of freshly butchered meat are being waved onto the ferry. I ask one of the group where to show my ticket. “You must give your ticket to that beautiful man,” he says, and giggles at his joke, since it is embarrassingly evident that the man he means is in fact the handsomest of the group.
Inside the big public room of the ferry there is a refreshment counter selling greasy snacks, fruit juices, beer..., and bottles of a white wine named for the Via Egnatia, the road the Romans built to link the eastern and western empires that ran through Macedonia and Thrace, from Rome to Constantinople. The ubiquitous ferry TVs, suspended in corners, are playing an ad for a TV series about Jacqueline Onassis, called Jackie I Agapimeni, Jackie the Beloved. I go out on deck to watch Kavalla recede, and pass on my way the control room from where the ship is being steered, a room that contains not only the ship’s wheel but a well-tended nursery of hanging baskets of flowers spilling from the ceiling onto the deck, and the fresh perfume of basil, for no self-respecting Greek ship seems to sail without its protective pots of basil, nor without its icon of Saint Nicholas, patron saint of sailors and merchants, and formerly known as Poseidon, according to some.MoreLess
Inside the big public room of the ferry there is a refreshment counter selling greasy snacks, fruit juices, beer..., and bottles of a white wine named for the Via Egnatia, the road the Romans built to link the eastern and western empires that ran through Macedonia and Thrace, from Rome to Constantinople. The ubiquitous ferry TVs, suspended in corners, are playing an ad for a TV series about Jacqueline Onassis, called Jackie I Agapimeni, Jackie the Beloved. I go out on deck to watch Kavalla recede, and pass on my way the control room from where the ship is being steered, a room that contains not only the ship’s wheel but a well-tended nursery of hanging baskets of flowers spilling from the ceiling onto the deck, and the fresh perfume of basil, for no self-respecting Greek ship seems to sail without its protective pots of basil, nor without its icon of Saint Nicholas, patron saint of sailors and merchants, and formerly known as Poseidon, according to some.MoreLess
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