Beyond the Rising Tide
“Kai says tiredly after I make him show me a good surfing stance for the eighth or so time. He’s standing on my surfboard in the dry sand, feet shoulder-width apart, knees slightly bent. One arm is extended toward the nose of the board, the other bent at his shoulder like he’s a ninja preparing to fight. “Surfing can’t be that different.”
“First of all,” I say, hands on hips, “steering a surfboard is nothing like steering a skateboard. It’s all about how you throw your shoulders and waist. And l...ook at how big of a surface you’re standing on compared to a skateboard. So many more places to put your feet. How do you know your feet are even in the right spot?”
“Because … this is where you told me to put them.”
I look down at his feet, and they’ve migrated since I told him where to stand. I give him a good shove in the chest, and he staggers backward onto the sand to catch his balance. “If you’d been standing where I told you to,” I say with a smile, “you would’ve stayed on your board.MoreLess
“First of all,” I say, hands on hips, “steering a surfboard is nothing like steering a skateboard. It’s all about how you throw your shoulders and waist. And l...ook at how big of a surface you’re standing on compared to a skateboard. So many more places to put your feet. How do you know your feet are even in the right spot?”
“Because … this is where you told me to put them.”
I look down at his feet, and they’ve migrated since I told him where to stand. I give him a good shove in the chest, and he staggers backward onto the sand to catch his balance. “If you’d been standing where I told you to,” I say with a smile, “you would’ve stayed on your board.MoreLess
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